Domaine Grand Veneur, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

 Domaine Grand Veneur is owned by Alain Jaume who, with his sons Stéphane and Christophe, has been raising the game to make this one of the leading estates ofmodern Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The estate is currently in conversion to organic status.

The Grand Veneur range comprises an extremely good red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as exquisite luxury cuvées in both colours. The Jaumes destem all the red grapes to avoid rusticity. As new techniques have been employed (or, perhaps, old techniques rediscovered, as they include not filtering the wine), improvements have been quite noticeable. The white wines have improved too with a greater understanding of the use of oak.

"Les Origines" in red is a benchmark for the modernist approach with tell-tale new oak supporting the fruit and the white "La Fontaine" is a delicious old-vine Roussanne which also sees a little oak. Unusually for white Châteauneuf-du-Pape (but not for those made with Roussanne) this can improve well over several years. It gives Beaucastel's "Vieilles Vignes Roussanne" a run for its money (at about a third of the price).

To the west, the Jaumes make one of the most striking wines from Lirac, called "Clos des Sixte".

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